How To Repair Broken Carbon Paddle Shaft

Topic: Is this how yous would repair a carbon paddle that is broken in two pieces?  (Read 9967 times)

I have a carbon paddle laying around thats broken in ii right about in the center and was wondering what is the best way to repair it?

I have never repaired a paddle before but this is how I was thinking of repairing it and please feel gratuitous to add your suggestions...

1) Cutting and and so sand both cleaved ends and so they are straight instead of ragged from breaking.
two) Sand each end about 6" upwardly the shaft to create a grip for the fiberglass and resin.
3) Shape an 8" long wood plug to fit within each cleaved end so I can join the two pieces of paddle. Make the wood plug a footling smaller in diameter than the inside of the paddle so there will be plenty room for epoxy resin.
4) Castor epoxy resin within each cleaved end of the paddle and on the wood plug and then bring together the 2 pieces of paddle.
v) Wrap layers of two" wide 6 oz E fabric (cuz thats what I accept) diagonally along the paddle extending to nigh half dozen" on each side of where the 2 pieces of paddle are joined.
6) Run another piece of the same two" broad fabric from the other direction the aforementioned way.
7) Wrap some articulate packing tape around the wetted out cloth and let it cure.
When cured pull off the tape and do minimal finish sanding.

What do y'all think? Would you cut the E cloth into ii" wide strips and how many layers of vi oz Due east cloth would you wrap?

Cheers

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9-2' ten 29" x three seven/eight" - Sunova longboard SUP
vii-ten x 29.25 x 4.25 ten 115 liters (ready to glass)

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I am no expert but that sounds proficient to me. The only thing I would suggest to what you lot outlined is to epoxy the dowel in just i one-half of the shaft first and let it cure. Then epoxy the other one-half onto the protruding dowel when it is solid. That  way you get the dowel positioned exactly where you want information technology and it does not slide effectually during the mating of the ii halves. Good luck.

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Bunch of old shit

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We have used cutoffs from other paddles instead of a wood dowel.  Ke Nalu shaft cutoffs fit nicely into regular sized shafts and make a stronger, lighter articulation.  You might be able to get a piece from a Ke Nalu dealer.

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You lot will create a stress bespeak on each ending point of the woods dowel...a new breaking bespeak...

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I idea about that, but whats the solution? Don't put a plug inside?

You will create a stress point on each ending betoken of the woods dowel...a new breaking point...

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nine-ii' x 29" x iii vii/8" - Sunova longboard SUP
vii-10 ten 29.25 ten 4.25 x 115 liters (fix to drinking glass)

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I have a Ke Nalu cutoff you are welcome to take. Pm me if you want information technology.

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I broke my paddle in 2 and fixed with Epoxy and Carbon - NO Dowels, NO Mandrels, NO Plug.  Total boosted weight 30 grams.

 ane)  Glue shaft, with epoxy (or I suppose yous could utilize super gum for starters).  All you are trying to do is re-align the shaft and get it 100% directly.  Strength is non equally much of an event as re-aligning and avoiding voids.  Just push button the frayed carbon back together.   If you cut it it will not exist every bit easy to become straight.

 2)  I built up a layer 6" long (broad) that was going to end up ~ as thick as original base (e.1000. four wraps Pie x Diameter).  The benefit here is you are laying upwards carbon outside of the shaft, and then you get extra a bump of moment of intertia from larger bore.  Key is to tape up a specific distance from break to exist sure to know where center of suspension is.

 3)  And so I layered upwards another 4 wraps 1 ane/2" on either side of break (e.g. total 3").

 A trick I learned from some epoxy Zone Yoda was to load up the cobweb with resin ON A SHEET OF Black PLASTIC.  Laminating the textile this way ensures that the textile only picks up the amount of resin information technology can handle, and you lot don't over-pool the resin.

(DW trick here: http://www.standupzone.com/forum/alphabetize.php?topic=19921.0)

 Then pare off the carbon (1st piece was ~ 18" 10 6") and using gloves wrap the shaft around the break.  Once dry the fix should be pretty bad-donkey.  The final eighteen" X 3" was used to doubly reinforce directly around the break.

My repair added just 30 grams of weight (20 grams fiber, 10 grams resin).  It has held up to 6 months in the surf (so far).  I was wary at first then simply forgot it was always broken.

Meet my string of photos.  Note:  02 shows the two halve mashed dorsum together, glued and sanded.  Information technology looked pretty good correct off the bat, but probably pretty weak at this point.  Shaft went from 202 grams to 226 grams (1st layer of carbon) to 224.half dozen sanded, so final 233.3 grams.  Annotation: the ratio of fiber to resin should be 2:i.  This was made possible past laying upward on the black plastic.

« Terminal Edit: September eighteen, 2022, 03:18:57 PM past Beasho »

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I would sugest you orient the fiber +- 45 degrees rather than 0-90....the fiber onth ninety axis is doing less than nada in this instance...just calculation weight

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I have had a few break in the past - I merely cutting them down and make kids paddles out of them for our demo fleet.

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Easy Passenger is the proper noun of my store in Edmonton, AB, Canada.
My name is Warren Currie . . . and we SUP Surf indoors . . . in a shopping mall!

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Yes I will for sure put the glass on a bias. Thanks.

I would sugest you orient the fiber +- 45 degrees rather than 0-90....the cobweb onth xc axis is doing less than nil in this case...merely adding weight

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ix-2' x 29" x 3 seven/8" - Sunova longboard SUP
7-10 x 29.25 10 4.25 x 115 liters (set up to glass)

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Beasho - Thank you for taking the time to mail service the photos and explain how you did it!

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nine-ii' x 29" 10 3 7/8" - Sunova longboard SUP
7-x 10 29.25 10 iv.25 x 115 liters (prepare to drinking glass)

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I would sugest you orient the fiber +- 45 degrees rather than 0-90....the fiber onth 90 axis is doing less than nothing in this case...just adding weight

Not true, the fiber on the ninety axis is providing pinch strength which keeps the integrity of the round shape.  I learned this from Alex (Native Living Custums) who is an expert at paddle construction.

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This visitor sells carbon cobweb tubing, they may accept a size compatible with your paddle:

http://dragonplate.com/ecart/categories.asp?cID=52

I've never bought anything from them and tin't offer whatsoever opinions on their products/service. Maybe they take a tube of an advisable length/cost which would fit the inside or exterior diameter of your paddle. I suppose you lot could taper the ends of the section used to reinforce your paddle to reduce stress betoken problems? I guess an internal splint would need to be tapered inside the splint tubing. I suppose you could make a wooden plug with a through-bolt to permit spinning the splint tube for tapering with a drill (spin on the drill and sand). If the wood plug isn't completely inserted you lot could wrap the projecting end with tape to prevent the splint from slipping while sanding.

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Allwave 9'5"
Surftech ten' AST RF Generator
Werner (Carve?) two piece adjustable

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Thanks only I think the consensus is to non put anything inside because it creates a hard spot that volition be vulnerable to breaking later.

This visitor sells carbon fiber tubing, they may have a size uniform with your paddle:

http://dragonplate.com/ecart/categories.asp?cID=52

I've never bought anything from them and tin't offer any opinions on their products/service. Mayhap they accept a tube of an advisable length/price which would fit the inside or exterior bore of your paddle. I suppose y'all could taper the ends of the section used to reinforce your paddle to reduce stress indicate problems? I guess an internal splint would demand to be tapered inside the splint tubing. I suppose yous could make a wooden plug with a through-bolt to permit spinning the splint tube for tapering with a drill (spin on the drill and sand). If the woods plug isn't completely inserted you could wrap the projecting stop with tape to forestall the splint from slipping while sanding.

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9-two' ten 29" x 3 7/8" - Sunova longboard SUP
seven-10 10 29.25 x 4.25 ten 115 liters (ready to drinking glass)

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And how would you run the layers if the shaft of the paddle was shaped like an OVAL instead of round?

I would sugest you orient the fiber +- 45 degrees rather than 0-90....the cobweb onth 90 centrality is doing less than aught in this example...just adding weight

Not true, the fiber on the 90 axis is providing compression strength which keeps the integrity of the round shape.  I learned this from Alex (Native Living Custums) who is an expert at paddle structure.

Logged

nine-ii' 10 29" x 3 7/viii" - Sunova longboard SUP
7-10 x 29.25 x 4.25 x 115 liters (ready to drinking glass)

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